Sewing-machine.



W; 'AR'BETTER. SEWING MACHINE.

APYLIOATIORIILED MAY 2''], 1907.

Patented Aug." 20,1912.

4 SHEET SS HEET 2.

W. ARBETTER.

' SEWING MACHINE? APPLICATION FILED MAY 27, 1907.

Patented Aug. 20', 1912.

' 4 SHEETS-SHEBTB.

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y w W WW1 W. ARBETTER;

SEWING MACHINE, PPLIQATION FILED MAY 27, 1907.

Patented Aug. 20, 1912.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

WOLF ARBETTER, OF CHELSEA, MASSACHUSETTS ASSIGNOR TO ARBETTER FELLING YMACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

nosaasa.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, WOLF Annn'r'rnn, acitizen-of the United States, residing in Chelsea, couxgty of Suffolk,and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement inSewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection withthe accompanying drawing, is a specification,

like letters on the drawing representing like parts.

stitches do not show in the body material of the garment.

My invention also includes mechanism whereby the stitch-formingmechanism in making the blind. stitches maybe so adjusted as to causethe needle to make'either of its movements in a straight line parallelto the line of feed, or all its movements diagonal to the line of feedand at any desired degree of angularity, or its movements alternatelystraight parallel to the line of feed and diagonal to the line of feedat. any desired degree of angularit-y.

My invention also involves a mechanism for replacing the fabric after ithas been pushed upwardly by what-is known as the bender to present thefabric'in the path of the needle.

said patent in connection with otherparts added thereto to enable asleeve or sleeve lining to be plaited or gathered into a garment, theplaiting or gathering being 'at-'in-' tervals in order that the end of asleeve may be properly attached to an armrscye of the garment. I I

This invention relating to sewing machines I for blind stitching has forone of its '0breplacer.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Aug 26, 1912. Applicationfiled May 27, 1907. Serial No. 375,847. I

- Figure 1 is a front end View; Fig. l 'is a detail of the rollercarrier and eccentric;

Fig. 2 is a rear or side view of the parts shown in Fig. 1; Fig.3'is adetail showing part of'the plaiting means and replaeer; Fig. 4 is anenlarged detail showing theapparatus employed for plaiting'or gatheringone part or portion of a fabric, as a sleeve,

on to another portion of a fabric constitl'iting part of a arment; Fig.5 is a like view showing the p aiting or gathering means in-- operative;Fig. 6-is a top or plan'view of F ig. 4; Fig. 7 is a top or plan View ofFig. 5; Fig. 8 is a side view of Fig. 6 looking from the right; Fig. 9shows part-of the work tobe done on the machine to. beherein described;Fig. IQ is a detail showingthe The sewing machine bed A, the overhangingarm A, the head casing'A A the main shaft A the connection B, theneedle-carrying rock-shaft E the needlecarrying arm 6 the needle cf, thetake-up D, the shaft A for driving the loop-takera, I

the needle bearing carrier or shaft B having at its lower end anenlargement 18 with which is connected by a screw 10 a bearing tosustain the needle-rock-shaft, the

.arm 0 connected with said shaft. B 9 and provided with an adjustingdevice 0, the

stop 0 the spring 0? surrounding shaft B, the rodul having attached toits lowerend d by a screw 10 the shank d of the presser-foot 03" havinga rearward extension.

d said presser-foot having a space 48, the space closer'd f, thespring-sustained throat-\ plate E,'the feeding device E the shaft Dhaving a cam D for moving the feed ing device, the fulcrum -E for thelower end of the feed device, the-bendenG are and maybe allsubstantiallyas'shown'in said patent with but slight alterations, to behereinafter described.

The arm 0 connected with the shaftjB sition. substantially at rightangles to the line in which the work is moved by the feeding device Eto'make what is called its straight thrust; that is, thethrust which issubstantially parallel with the direction of the length of the seam andwith the infolded end of said bolt, see Fig. 1, entering the edge, andto facilitate this adjustment the arm 0 is provided with an adjustingdevice 0 so as to insure just the proper pos1- tion for the needle inits thrust into the body material f restingon the work-support.Theupperend of the shaft B? has connected therewith by a bolt 8 a'linkor arm 7 having at its outer bnd an car 70, said ear haying a stud 63secFig. 1, that receives over it a hole 5, see Fig. 1, of .a roller-carrying arm 4 provided at its upper 'end with a stud 3 on which is mounted aroller 2. The

arm 4 has an elongated slot 12 that receives an eccentric 13 formingpart'of'a roller-adjusting device 15. 1 The'adjusting device andeccentric have a 'hole" that receives the threaded shank of a bolt 18,the. threaded screw-threaded hole in the lug referred to.

The edge of the adjustingdevice has a series of numbers, andthe lug ofthe arm 7 i has a pointer 17 coacting with said numbers.

The main shaft has upon it 'nea-rits outer end a gear C that engagesa'larger gear 0 both common to said patent, the gear 0 being rotatedonce to two rotations of the gear G. The gear C has a face cam C" andthe roller 2 referred to may be acted upon by the face of said cam, thelatter when operat- 30 ing on the roller 2 turning said rock-shaft inone direction preparatory to making one stitch, the spring-C turningsaid shaft in the opposite direction preparatory to making the next orsucceeding stitch. By turning theeccentric 13 referredto, the positionof the roller on' the arm 7 may be 'so changed as to cause the camacting at each rotation on said roller, to turn the shaft 1 B?" andneedle shaft bearing B more or less, to thus provide for differentpositions of the needle when making its angular thrust, or its thrust atan angle 'to the direction of the length of the seam, as when enteringthe superimposed material f at an angle to its edge. When the roller '2isso positioned on the arm .7

that the cam exerts its fullthrow on the roller, the greater theangularity of the thrust of the needle, and when the roller 2 is soadjusted on the arm 7 that the cam in its rotation will not strike saidroller, then the rocking or swinging movement of the rock-shaft B may beentirely suspended and each thrust of the needle will 'be a straightthrust, so it will be understood that by turning the adjusting device,the rocking movement of the shaft B may be entirely suspended, in whichcase each ,thrust of the needle will be what iscalled a straight thrust;and so also it vwill be understood that if each thrust of the needle isto be a diagonal thrust, then the adjusting device a will be so turnedwith relation to the arm 0 that said adjusting device in contact withthe stop 0' will hold the rock-shaft in any desired position, so thatthe thrust of the needle will bea diagonal thrust and just alike foreach thrust, and at this time the roller-carrying arm and roller will beso adthat 'I have chosen to designate as a re placer, it comprising arod h having a 'por- I tion k connected-to its lower end adjustably byascrew h? in a slot la, .so that the lower portion or acting extremity ofthe replacer may be adjusted vertically on or with relation to the rodh, said extremity being usually so adjusted that when thereplacercompletes its workin strike it will occupy a position substantia ly 1nthe plane of the bottom of the presser-foot in the space 48.,

The upper end of the replacer has a collar h suitably pinned thereto,and between said collar-and the vpart A of the head-casing is interposeda spring ii that acts normally to retain the upper end of the replaceralways in contact with the cam h. The replacer is guided in'its verticalmovements by a tubular bearing 71f held in the part A, the spring hsurrounding said bearing, the

latter having a notch 22, see Fig. 2, that a is entered by a. in 23-,the slot and pin insuring a straig tline movement for the r'eplacer. Thebender G is the same as in mysaid patent, and it is actuated in likemanner to bend the material preferably at .each alternate thrust, thebender being essential'in bending the material when the needle entersthe body material orwhenithe needle is making its so-called straightthrust. It will be urfderstood that the bender as it rises meets theunder side of the body'material f; resting on the throat-plate and bendsthe material upwardly into the space 48 of the resser-foot, and after asti ch is made and thebender is retracted or lowered, the usual feeding.device rises through the slots in the usual throat-plate 24 of thework-support, engages the under side of the material I and feeds thesame for a stitch.

"I have found in practice, with some material and es ecially withmaterial of more than one thlckness, that the bender jams or crowds thematerial into the space 48 of the presser-foot, and when the machine isbeing run at high speed, the bent material in said space interferes withthe movement of the fabric by the feed, as if the movement of the fabricis held back due to the upwardly bent material yet in the resser-foot,of course there must be a variation in the feed stroke,

which is detrimental to good work. Consequently have devised thereplacer before referred to, and I haveso timed its 7 movements that itoccupies its elevated po- Bil aoaasee when its end arrives substantiallyin the plane of the under side of the resser-foot, said replacer thuspartially filling-the space in the presser-foot""during the time thatthe feed, engaging the under side of the material, is moving thematerial over the under side of the presser-foot, the work-support atsuch time being slightly relieved from its pressure, as provided for insaid patent,'in

order not to interfere with or clamp the work during the feedingoperation.

The cam C has an annular groove 24 so cut into a part of its peripheryas to leave a cam shaped as shown by'dotted lines, Fig. 1, that contactswith one edge of an actuator 31 comprising essentially a bent arm showndetached in Fig. 3, said arm' being pivoted at 32. A spring 33 connectedwith a stud34extended from said actuator and connected at its oppositeend with a fixed stud 35 keeps the actuator in contact normally withsaid cam during its rotation. The lower-end of the actuator has aconnected extension 86 attached by screws 36*, the extension beingcarried-forwardly and slotted to embrace a stud 37 rising from a.

blade-carrier 38 mounted loosely upon the rear part a of thepresser-foot ([9. The blade-carrier has a diagonal or inclined slot 39that has Eoacting with itguiding means shown as two screws 40 located insaid slot. The forWa-rd'end of the blade-carrier 38 is shown as bentupwardly as at 41 to occupy an angular position, and has connected withit near its free end by suitable studs 42 a spring blade 43, saidportion41being slotted as at 44, see Figs. 6 and 7, to receive abladecontroller 45 shown as a lever having an eccentric end and mountedon a pivot 46 thrust through the extension 41. When the controller 45occupies the position Fig. 4, the spring blade occupies its operativeposition,

but when turned backwardly into the dotted line position Fig. 5, thefree end of the blade, due to its being made of spring metal,

rises and occupies its inoperative position.

When the controller is in the position full lines Fig. 4, the blademaybe made to pucker or gather the fabric 1 which is folded on itself,as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, said material being, the upper end of asleeve lining, of silk or other usual lining fabric, the same being laidon the lining support or shelf '50 herein represented as forming part ofthe presser-foot all", said shelf as constructed having an edge guide 52and being slotted,

' carried by the main shaft.

t l" en:

see Figs. 6 and 7, for the reception of screws 53. When the blade 43occupies the 'posi- 'tion shown by dotted lines, Fig. 5, the controlleralso-occupying its dotted line position, then the blade, in its forwardmove ment, due to moving the carriage 38 in the direction of the arrowFig. 4 by the actuator 31, will not strike the material .f andconsequently will not plait or gather the same. i

In the drawing f is supposed to represent a portion of a garment towhich the inturned end of a sleeve lining f is to be stitched about theusual arm-scye, or part of the body 'part of a coat or garment. In fact,the sleeve lining, when stitched into the coat may be stitched not onlyto the coat lining, but also to the inturned upper end of the sleevepart of the coat or the arm-scye 'of the coat at the portionthereofappearing in the back of the coat, or may be stitched only to thecoat lining around the top of the shoulder from the shoulder-seam downto the under side of the arin-scye, where again the upper end of thesleeve lining may.

be attached not only to the lining of the coat, but also to the bodymaterial of the coat. The folded edge of. the sleeve lining 1 may bemade to abut the gage 52 sustained by the presser-foot. The extent ofmovement of the actuator and blade is controlled by a regulator 54 shownas a threaded screw having a long head notched as at 55 to be engaged bya locking device 56, the screw being projected more or less througha'lug 57 carriedby the actuator-{to meet sooner or later the portion Aof the head casing I material passing over the top said patent, in thatthe rock-shaftherein has V at its outer end a rigidly connected arm aprovided with a ball-shaped ring a? fitted overa stud a carried by saidarm, said ball-shaped roller being embraced by a bushv ing a tconcavedinternally to fit the roller a and convexed externally to fit a concaved"eye at the lower end of the connecting rod 13*. The'upper end oft-heconnecting rod B has a like bushing that embraces a like ball-like ringfitted over a stud (L15 held in a stand a connected with the disk Bcommon disk being to said patent, by screws a", said Prior to myinvention devices for-plait-ing moved in lines parallel to the.direct-ion in which thematerial is fed .over the work support, and thesebladesghave plaited mate rial that a straight needle might meet theupper side of the material, pass straightthrough the same, and.st-it chthe plaited material to another fabric, the path of moveof the materialf being plaited, in a straighter ment of the needle being at rightangles to the work-support, and in this class of machinery the plaitinghas been done pre paratory to the formation of each stitch, or

a plait has been formed for each thrust of the needle.

I believe that I am the first to combin with blind-stitch-formingmechanism, anymeans' whatever forplaiting'a fabric; and also the firstto combine with blind stitchforming mechanism plaiting means wherein theoperator may, at will, suspend the plaiting of one fabric being stitchedto another fabric, this latter combination making it possible withoutstopping thestitch-forming mechanism to do work on a machine that hasalways heretofore been done by hand, such for instance as sewing asleeve lining into a coat at the arm-scye.

' Inqplaiting devices heretofore used, the blade or device acting on thematerial to plait the same has been movedduring the plaiting operationonly in thedireotion of the length of the seam. Hereinthe fabric to beplaited is acted upon by the plaiting device prior to the" diagonalthrust of the needle, and I have so constructed the plating means, asrepresented by the slots 39' and screws 40 that in addition to itslongitudinal movement s'aid plaiting means has imparted to it a slighttransverse movement at an angle to the length of the seam and thedirection of feed, such. movement of the plaiting means maintaining thefolded edge line than is possible if the plating means had only astraightforward thrust. So while'I have illustrated my improvements ascapable of being carried out by means herein represented and described,I desire to state-that my invention is not limited to 4 the particularshape shown for the plaiting device or its actuating means, as Imayemploy any other usual or suitable means of the same or like nature.

I have herein shown means for rendering the blade of the plaiting deviceinoperative by enabling the free end of the blade to rise so as not tocontact with the material, and at the same time the device carrying theblade is moved continuously while the stitching is going on, but my'invention would not be'departed from if the carrier for the blade shouldtemporarily be thrown out of operationmanuall during the stitchingoperation, the bla e at'such time being inoperative to plait the fabric.

In my prior Patent No. 969,740, granted September 6,1910, I havedescribed and claimed broadly means for maintaining the needle above thework-support in a plane diagonal to the line of feed, whereby onlydiagonal stitches may be formed at any desired angle, and in the machineof the said application and in my prior machines I have alsoprovided forthe operation of theneedle in alternate planes first in the direction ofthe path of feed and then diagonal thereto with an adjustment to providefor any desired degree of angularity inthe alternate thrust. The presentinvention involves as one feature means whereby-the needle may beoperated either (1) in a plane parallel to the direction of feed, or (2)in a plane of any desired degree of angularity so that all the stitchesmay be. made diagonal to the line of feed at any desired angle, or (3)in planes alternately parallel to the lineof feed and at any desiredangle relative thereto so that the stitches may be made alternately,first, parallel to the lineof feed and, secthereto. r

Having described my invention, what I Patent is 1. In a sewing machine,a work-support, a needle and complementalstitch-forming mechanismlocated and operating above the work-support, means to actuate saidneedle and complemental stitch-forming ID80117- anism to make a seriesof blind stitches, a plaiting device comprising a carrier and a blade,and manually controlledfmeans for suspending the plaiting operation ofthe blade at Will while the stitch-forming mechanism continues tooperate.

2. In a sewing machine, work-supporting ing blind stitches, plaitinmeans, and means to move the same both forwardly and laterally. withrelation to. the length of the seam.

3. In a sewing machine, a work-support, a presser-foot, stitch-formingmechanism comprising aneedle and looper located and operating above theresser-foot, means for actuating said needle to enter a folded edge of'alayer of superimposed material to be stitched to material under thePresser-foot,

means for guiding the edge of the folded material, plaiting means toengage the material to be plaited, and means to move the plaiting meansin the direction of movement of thematerial and diagonallywith relationthereto prior to each thrust of the needle into the edge of saidmaterial.

4. In a sewing machine, a work-support,

end, at any desired .angle with relation. r

claim as new and desire to secure by Letters a Presser-foot providedwith an opening,

means for projecting the material into said opening, stitch-formingmechanism located above the Work-support, and means for operating it tocause the needle to pass over the 5. In a sewing machine, awork-support,

a presser-foot provided with an opening, means for projecting thematerial into said opening, stitch-forming mechanism located above thework-support, and'means for operating it to cause the needle to passover the upper surface of the presser-foot and form blind stitches inthefabric projected therethrough, a guide to direct the edge of an upperlayer of fabric adjacent said opening, a plaiting device mounted on saidpresserfoot to slide back and forth thereon and di agonally withrelation to the movement of the fabric, means for operating saidpla-iting device whereby the upper layer of fabric while being plaitedis held up against the said guide.

6. In a sewing machine, a worksupport,

a Presser-foothaving a bender space, means to change the size of saidspace, a bender to press the material upwardly into the space of thepresser-foot, and a replacer to act on the material pressed into saidspace by the bender to remove the same from said space.

7. In a sewing machine, a work-support, a bar having at its upper end anarm and at its lower end a bearing, a needle-carrier sustained in saidbearing, a needle mounted in said needle-carrier, complementalstitchforming mechanism, a cam and means for operating the same, a linkmounted on said arm and having a roller coiiperating with said cam, andan eccentric to adjust said link and consequently the extent of rockingmovement imparted to said bar from said cam.

8. In a sewing machine, a; work-support, a bar having a hearing at itslower end, a needle-carrier sustained in said bearing, a needle mountedin said needle-carrier, complemental stitch-forming mechanism mountedand operative above the "work-support, means for rocking said bar' tocause the needle to move in aplane in the direction of feed and then ina.plane diagonal thereto, means for adjusting the'operation of saidrocking means to cause the bar either to remain stationary at any pointof its range of oscillation or to oscillate through any desired angle inits range, whereby the stitches may be made all parallel, all inclinedat any desired angle, or all alternately parallel and inclined at anydesired angle to the direction of feed.

9. In a sewing machine, a Work-support, stitch-forming mechanism mountedand operative above said work-support and comprising a needle enteringand emerging on the same side of the fabric, whereby blind stitches areformed thereby, means for bodily oscillating the said needle to cause itto move on a plane in the direction of feed, and then in a planediagonal thereto, means for adjusting the position and range ofoscillation of said needle to cause its path of oscillationwhereby thestitches may be made all parallel, all inclined at any desired angle, orall alternately parallel and inclined at any desired angle to thedirection of feed.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of Y two sub'scribing witnesses.

WOLF

ARBETTER.

Witnesses:

GEO. W. Gxnoonr, EVANGELINE C.- BROWN.

